A-Maze-Ing Washcloth Free Crochet Pattern

The A-Maze-Ing Washcloth is a Free pattern companion to the A-Maze-Ing Placemats set. Below you can get written instructions and charts showing both the front and back of the design to make it as easy as possible to make your own fun maze washcloth (and yes, it’s a real maze!)

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The A-Maze-Ing Washcloth Free Interlocking Crochet Pattern with written instructions and charts

This design uses interlocking crochet to create a fun maze. You start at the bottom left corner where the little peach bit dips down into the blue border. Try to find your way to the center of the maze! This pattern is also available to purchase from Ravelry or Etsy as a PDF file.

Supplies

  • WeCrochet Dishie cotton yarn in colors Navy and Conch, or similar worsted weight cotton yarn, approximately 100 yards of each color.
  • Size I crochet hook – I love these Odyssey hooks from Furls Crochet!
  • Yarn/Tapestry Needle for weaving in ends.

Stitch Abbreviations

  • ch chain
  • st(s) stitch(es)
  • sc single crochet
  • dc double crochet
  • F Front dc + ch1
  • B Back dc + ch1

Gauge and Finished Size

Gauge is not critical for this pattern, but my gauge is 8 rows and 8 stitches in 4″ (measurements count both MC and CC stitches as 1 stitch, so 8 rows is 8 MC/CC row pairs, and 8 stitches is 8 MC/CC stitch pairs). Gauge is taken in pattern, or you can make a zig zag interlocking sample to check gauge.

The finished washcloth measures approximately 11″ x 11″

Pattern Notes

This washcloth pattern creates a real, solvable maze! Please note, however, that the washcloth is not reversible – the front side will be a maze, but the back side is not solvable. The goal of the maze is to get from the starting corner to the center of the maze.

The washcloths are made using interlocking crochet (also known as interwoven, intermeshing, or double filet crochet). In interlocking crochet, every dc has a ch1 between it and the next dc. 

Each color only ever works into stitches of its own color. This effectively forms two meshes. The meshes are woven around each other as you work by changing whether you work stitches from the front of the work or the back of the work.

For an introduction to interlocking crochet, you can see this tutorial (though it uses a different starting technique), which also teaches the interlocking zig-zag, a good choice if you’d like to do a gauge swatch: 

It is very important as you work to make sure that you are skipping the dc’s of the opposite color rows – 2dcs of the same color will always have a dc of the opposite color worked between them. 

I recommend that instead of making your turn ch at the start of the next row, you make it at the end of the previous row so that you can more easily place stitch markers and make sure your starting chains are in the correct location, either in the front or the back of the work (this is noted in the instructions).  Placing a stitch marker in the loop that would go on your hook when not in use will help to make sure you don’t accidentally unravel your work when not using that color.

For those who crochet left-to-right, I recommend using the charts instead of the written instructions. Using the written instructions will still result in a solvable maze, but the word “MAZE” will be on the right side instead of the left, and the Z and E will be backward.

Ch4’s at the start of a row count as either F or B (they count as the dc and the ch1). If using the annotated chart, note that on B rows, the first marked f or b stitch is created by the turn chain. On A rows, the turn chain creates the “wall” at the edge of the maze.

Annotated charts for the front and back of the washcloth are included below.

In my example, MC is navy and CC is conch. The main color is your maze “walls”, and the contrast color is your maze “path”.

Special Stitches

Front Double Crochet (F): Working in front of the other color, double crochet into the dc on the same color row below, then ch1. – For last stitch of the row, omit ch1

Back Double Crochet (B): Working behind the other color, double crochet into the dc on the same color row below, then ch1. – For last stitch of the row, omit ch1

Note: on row 1B, you will work F or B stitches into the starting chain rather than a dc on the row below. Be sure to leave a stitch on your starting chain unworked between each dc.

How to Make The A-Maze-Ing Washcloth

Blue and Peach folded crocheted washcloth
  • Row 1A/1B

To begin, we will create a mesh with MC. Ch 48. dc in 6th ch from hook (the 43rd st of your starting ch). *ch1, sk 1, dc, repeat from * across. You should have 23 dc and 22 ch spaces. Stitch count will not change. Ch4, place a stitch marker. Do not turn.

 With CC, ch 46. Lay your CC starting chain over your MC starting mesh. The working yarn of MC should be on the left, and the working yarn of CC should be on the right. Working behind the top bar of the MC mesh, dc in the 6th ch from your hook (working with CC). Work 18 more B stitches, then 2 F stitches, ch4, place a stitch marker, turn. (22 CC dcs separated by ch1 spaces – stitch count will not change)

  • 2A – [Place working yarn of CC in back of work] With MC, B-1, F-11, B-1, F-7, B-1, dc in 3rd st of turn ch. ch4, place a stitch marker.
  • 2B – With CC, F-5, B-1, F-1, B-1, F-2, B-1, F-1, B-1, F-6, B-2, ch4, place a stitch marker. Turn.
  • 3A – [Place working yarn of CC in front] With MC, F-2, B-5, F-1, B-1, F-2, B-3, F-1, B-4, F-2, dc in 3rd st of turn ch. ch4, place a stitch marker.
  • 3B – With CC, F-2, B-4, F-1, B-2, (F-1, B-1) twice, F-6, B-1, F-1, ch4, place a stitch marker, turn.
  • 4A – [Place CC working yarn in back] With MC, B-2, F-3, B-2, (F-1, B-1) twice, F-3, B-1, F-3, B-3, dc in 3rd st of turn ch, ch4, place a stitch marker.
  • 4B – With CC, F-4, B-2, (F-1, B-1) three times, F-2, B-1, F-2, B-4, ch4, place a stitch marker, turn.
  • 5A – [Place working yarn of CC in front] With MC, F-1, B-1, F-2, B-1, F-1, B-2, F-2, (B-1, F-1) three times, B-3, F-2, dc in 3rd st of starting ch, ch4, place a stitch marker.
  • 5B – With CC, B-2, F-1, B-1, F-2, B-1, F-1, B-1, F-3, B-1, F-1, B-1, F-4, B-1, F-1, ch4, place a stitch marker, turn.
  • 6A – [Place CC in back] With MC, B-2, F-4, B-1, F-1, B-2, F-4, B-1, F-1, B-1, F-3, B-1, dc in 3rd st of starting ch, ch4, place a stitch marker.
  • 6B – With CC, F-5, B-4, F-4, (B-1, F-2) twice, B-2 ch4, place a stitch marker, turn.
  • 7A – [Place CC in front] With MC, F-2, B-1, F-1, B-3, F-1, B-4, F-3, B-5, F-1, dc in 3rd st of starting ch, ch4, place a stitch marker.
  • 7B – With CC, F-3, B-4, F-2, B-2, F-4, B-4, F-2, ch4, place a stitch marker, turn.
  • 8A – [Place CC in back] With MC, B-1, F-1, B-1, F-4, B-3, F-1, B-1, F-6, B-3, dc in 3rd st of starting ch, ch4, place a stitch marker.
  • 8B – With CC, (F-1, B-1) twice, F-3, B-1, F-1, B-2, F-6, B-4, ch4, place a stitch marker, turn.
  • 9A – [Place CC in front] With MC, F-2, B-1, F-1, B-3, F-1, B-2, F-1, B-1, F-1, B-2, (F-1, B-1) twice, F-2, dc in 3rd st of turn ch, ch4, place a stitch marker.
  • 9B – With CC, F-1, B-2, F-2, B-1, F-2, B-3, (F-1, B-1) four times, F-2, ch4, place a stitch marker, turn.
  • 10A – [Place CC in back] With MC, (B-1, F-1) three times, (F-1, B-1) twice, F-2, B-6, F-2, B-1, dc in 3rd st of starting ch, ch4, place a stitch marker.
  • 10B – With CC, F-3, (B-1, F-1) four times, B-2, F-1, B-4, F-1, B-2, ch4, place a stitch marker, turn.
  • 11A – [Place CC in front] With MC, F-6, B-2, F-3, B-3, F-2, B-4, F-1, dc in 3rd st of starting ch, ch4, place a stitch marker.
  • 11B – With CC, B-1, F-3, B-1, F-1, B-2, F-3, B-2, F-2, B-4, F-2, ch4, place a stitch marker, turn.
  • 12A – [Place CC in back] With MC, B-1, F-5, B-2, (F-1, B-1) twice, F-2, B-1, F-2, B-2, F-1, B-1, dc in 3rd st of starting ch, ch4, place a stitch marker.
  • 12B – With CC, B-6, (F-2, B-1) twice, F-1, B-1, F-3, B-1, F-1, B-2, ch4, place a stitch marker, turn.
  • 13A – [Place CC to front] With MC, F-2, B-5, F-2, (B-1, F-1) twice, B-2, F-1, B-3, F-2, dc in 3rd st of starting ch, ch4, place a stitch marker.
  • 13B – With CC, B-1, F-2, B-1, F-1, B-1, F-2, B-2, (F-1, B-1) twice, F-7, ch4, place a stitch marker, turn.
  • 14A – [Place CC to back] With MC, B-2, F-3, B-2, F-2, B-1, F-3, B-8, dc in 3rd st of starting ch, ch4, place a stitch marker.
  • 14B – With CC, B-1, F-4, (B-2, F-2) twice, B-6, F-1, B-1, ch4, place a stitch marker, turn.
  • 15A – [Place CC to front] With MC, F-1, B-2, F-4, B-1, F-3, B-2, F-3, B-3, F-2, dc in 3rd st of turn ch, ch4, place a stitch marker.
  • 15B – With CC, F-1, B-2, F-3, B-1, F-3, B-3, F-2, B-1, F-2, B-1, F-2, ch4, place a stitch marker, turn.
  • 16A – [Place CC to back] With MC, (B-1, F-1) four times, F-3, B-3, F-5, B-2, dc in 3rd st of turn ch, ch4, place a stitch marker.
  • 16B – With CC, F-1, B-1, F-2, B-3, F-4, B-2, F-1, B-1, F-5, B-1, ch4, place a stitch marker, turn.
  • 17A – [Place CC to front] With MC, F-2, B-3, F-2, B-6, F-3, B-3, F-2, dc in 3rd st of starting ch, ch4, place a stitch marker.
  • 17B – With CC, F-2, B-2, F-1, B-1, F-1, B-5, F-7, B-1, F-1, ch4, place a stitch marker, turn.
  • 18A – [Place CC to back] With MC, B-2, F-3, B-4, F-4, B-1, F-2, B-1, F-1, B-3, dc in 3rd st of turn ch, ch4, place a stitch marker.
  • 18B – With CC, F-1, B-8, F-3, B-1, F-1, B-1, F-2, B-4, ch4, place a stitch marker, turn.
  • 19A – [Place CC to front] With MC, F-4, B-2, F-1, B-4, F-5, B-1, F-1, B-1, F-2, dc in 3rd st of turn ch, ch4, place a stitch marker.
  • 19B – With CC,F-3, B-3, F-1, B-4, F-1, B-1, F-3, B-2, F-1, B-1, F-1, ch4, place a stitch marker, turn.
  • 20A – [Place CC to back] With MC, B-3, F-1, B-3, F-6, B-1, F-5, B-2, dc in 3rd st of turn ch, ch4, place a stitch marker.
  • 20B – With CC, F-2, B-2, F-1, B-1, F-13, B-2, ch4, place a stitch marker, turn.
  • 21A – [Place CC to front] With MC, F-1, B-19, F-1, dc in 3rd st of turn ch, ch4, place a stitch marker.
  • 21B – With CC, B-20, F-1, Tie off CC, turn.
  • 22A – F across. Tie off MC. Weave in ends.

A-Maze-Ing Washcloth Charts

Front Chart
Back Chart

If you like this design, you might also like the A-Maze-Ing Placemats, the Zigzag Cowl, or the Cobblestone Scarf!

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